The city of Ligonier has a long and diverse history. Founded in the early 19th century it was built in a valley known for their strawberries. By mid century Jewish immigrants started moving in as residents were more accepting to them as compared to other small towns across the United States. Their business acumen in banking and real estate as well as the strategic location between the larger cities of Fort Wayne and South Bend helped the town thrive. Around World War II most of the Jewish influence had moved out, but the town started focusing on industry and factories popped up in and around the city. In the last few decades, a large Hispanic population had started to move in and now comprise more than half the population. Their culture has influenced the downtown businesses with their restaurants and grocery stores. So picture this – small town Indiana architecture, occupied by Hispanic stores, with old synagogues in the background, surrounded by farms. What you can see today is this cosmopolitan community that differs from most small towns in Indiana and shows the best of different cultures and religions all in one place.
The Tenderloin.
My wife’s family is from Ligonier, so I’m familiar with The Charger House and have had their famous fish on more than one occasion. While starting a new job around 10 years ago, I had to drive to a center in Fort Wayne every few weeks to take building code tests for work. I made sure to plan enough time to stop halfway there at The Charger House to get their breakfast. When someone suggested to try their tenderloin, I was sure to detour to US-6 at some point to get lunch and check it out. I was pleased to find that they, also, serve up a great rendition of Indiana’s favorite sandwich. The loin was first butterflied and then breaded with what seems to be the same spices that they serve on the fish. The meat was white and tender; nothing too thick or large, but enough to get your fill. It was brought out with the oil still glistening giving proof on how fresh this was made. I had eaten a tenderloin here around 2 months ago just to check it out. When I took my son in here for the blog, we each ordered up one, but after the server left, I had second thoughts about the fish and wished I’d ordered that instead just to try something different. I’ll tell you what, after I bit into that tenderloin… I was go glad I hadn’t ordered the fish. It was so good and really hit the spot after seeing some of the sights in town. The slogan at The Charger House (and it says it right on their sign) is “Famous For Our Fish”. I could understand if someone went up there and added “And Tenderloin”.
The Town
Grounded is the coffee house on the downtown strip. Make sure you don’t wear rollerblades when you head down to the counter; you won’t be able to stop in time and will probably end up… grounded. In all seriousness, make sure to obey the sign and hold that handrail whole heading down that ramp. The shop, itself, is friendly and inviting place to kick back with a brew and enjoy some conversation or just read a book. There is a mini coffee counter set up in the back with some kid sized table and chairs for the little ones to play barista. Even gazing at a piano upstairs with the cover off would be fascinating to those who have never seen the inner workings of one. As far as drinks, my son ordered the hot chocolate while I ordered from the summer drink list and got a Snickers Frappe with two shots of espresso. I think the frappe tasted more like Snickers than the actual candy bar does. After sampling my caffeinated drink, my son offered a trade, but no deal!
I have a first for the Tenderloin and the Town blog. Ligonier has its own perfumery – and they offer tours. Are you not sure what a perfumery is? Well, it’s just like it sounds; it’s a place where they make perfumes (and colognes.) It’s all made right here in the shop in Ligonier. Not only would you not find another perfumery in the state of Indiana, you won’t find one in the whole United States. The tour is pretty interesting. They go over some of the history of the founders as well as show you how a scent is put together. You learn about the different “notes” that go in each fragrance. Whether you take a tour or not, you can stop in to mix and match to make your own personal fragrance. I went right for the scents and combined lemon, black pepper, and ginger. I was hoping to create a spray that I could carry around and maybe add to some chicken wings to give them some flavor. Turns out, that combo was pretty rank, maybe it would work as a cologne to keep people away or as mace or something? I don’t know… the other combos we tried weren’t that pleasing either and we decided to leave to the experts and I carried off a 2 oz bottle of Stampede. So if you are in Indiana eating a tenderloin in a restaurant somewhere and get a whiff of “lavender, sage, Mediterranean spices with traces of Moroccan rose, followed by a subtle hint of amber and vintage patchouli”, that might be me sitting at the table next to you. Even if you aren’t into perfumes and colognes, it is it a nice place to learn something new and experience the basic scents you have heard of but never knew you were smelling – like lavender, frankincense, and vetiver.
In Ligonier you can make that fast transition from smells to tastes. La Michoacana Ice Cream is on the north part of the downtown strip and has unique flavors of ice cream. Sure, you could grab a chocolate scoop, but when they serve up Rompope (eggnog-like), Gansito (strawberry/crème/chocolate candy bar), Fruity Pebbles, Dragonfruit, and Queso (think the sweetness of cheesecake) you can leave the Neapolitan behind and try something new. I had the Tequila (Patron) Almond scoop. My son had Oreo… but… this isn’t cookies and cream with vanilla with Oreo pieces in it; this is an Oreo white filling flavored ice cream with chocolate cookie pieces. Be sure to also check out the mini-pancakes, crepes, and my favorite Mexican dessert – the Mangonada. The bright colors walking in will lift your spirits even before the sweet frozen dessert hits your mouth.
Be sure to check out the Ligonier Visitor’s Center while in town. It is housed in an old gas station right south of the downtown triangle. In it you can see first-hand some of the history of the city. One of the things I like to do when visiting a community is to find where the old high school was. When googling a pic I found this giant ornate university-like building. I couldn’t find an address and I figured it may have been where the mid-century high-school was. (by the current primary school). I had a nice conversation with the people there about where the old high school was located, but after a few pictures and even a book, we couldn’t find the info except it was the Ligonier high school between 1876 to 1911. A few days later another resident solved the mystery as he stated it was across the cemetery where a Mcfast-food place sits now. Long gone and almost forgotten, the old-old high school must have been a site to see. I’d encourage you to google it yourself, I’d post a pic, but I only post pictures that I take.
Continuing the downtown walk, I popped into Gabriela's European Desserts. We were lucky enough to purchase some cupcakes from Gabriela herself as she was in that day and had a few items left. I went with the maple cupcake, but we also took home a vanilla one, an Oreo one, and a cheesecake. You can forget those mass produced box store pastries, these are homemade and it shows though with the taste.
For lunch in Ligonier, we went across the street from the visitor’s center to Aguascalientes Supermarket. It is owned by the parents of a coworker of mine and it was highly suggested that I try the gorditas. Although Aguascalientes is more of a grocery store, it has tables where they serve fresh made food similar to a restaurant. It works out really well in that style as they have easy access to the food and cut out the middleman. It’s a common style in most Mexican supermarkets, so don’t be shy if you are out and about and see one during mealtime. Walk in and take a seat to get something better than what is manufactured by the fast food places. So let’s get back to the gorditas. It is prepared with a thick corn tortilla and stuffed with all kinds of meats and cheeses. These have perfectly made pork belly, or pork rind, that gives the meat a soft texture and flavorful bite. The fat just melts in your mouth similar to slow cooked pulled pork or ribs. The sauce gave a slight kick and the cheese added a creamy texture. It is good stuff. I’ve never had one before, but I see gorditas being served up on my plate in future visits. I would highly recommend going in and trying something new if you haven’t eaten authentic Mexican food. In addition to the Gorditas, the birria (stew) and menudo (tripe soup) come highly recommended. If that isn’t your thing, then the tacos are outstanding too.
The Martin Kenny Disk Golf course is in the park on the west side of town by the school. A newer course, you get 18 holes with varying challenge and distances. Some are long and wide open, others short but blocked by large trees. For a couple holes you go into the woods to give a different challenge. They have something I haven’t seen before – an elevated basket hung in the trees. You actually have to climb a few stairs to retrieve your disk. The park, itself, is a large expanse of baseball fields, pickleball courts, playgrounds, and picnic shelters. There is even an indoor sports center for when the weather is on the nasty side.
Talking to people around town I seemed to get two opinions of the city. Some say that it used to be great and now it’s a shadow of itself, others talked about the future and how it is a work in progress. But what I experienced is a city that is great right now. Instead of an abandoned downtown strip, or a gentrified one that feels artificial, Ligonier’s is filled with small family owned businesses that put in the extra effort to keep it beautiful. The history of the city is alive and on display in not only the giant houses on Main Street, but the murals that cover the sides of buildings. The festivals keep people coming in for fun times like the Pioneer Festival at Stone’s Trace or the Marshmallow Festival held downtown. (For being the marshmallow capital of the world, I didn’t see one marshmallow whole time I was out there). Don’t forget, either, they have one heck of a tenderloin being served up there too.
Oh, wait! I did find a marshmallow. In the museum.
by Michael Tomko
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